FAQs
Radiator FAQ’s
Question: What are the advantages in buying an aluminium radiator and what gain in performance will I see?
You will see three main advantages…
1. Performance. Superior core make up and design. Up to 30% gain in thermal efficiency over a similar sized cooper / brass radiator.
2. Appearance. Aluminium radiators don’t require painting which allows the natural alloy finish to remain. This also gives the option to polish the radiator to near chrome appearance.
3. Weight. Aluminium radiators are often one third of the weight of a conventional copper brass radiator. Anything that is physically lighter is thermally more effective at dissipating heat.
Question: Will my vehicle need to be modified to fit a PWR Street & Racer Series radiator?
PWR’s Street & Racer Series radiators are designed to be an OE replacement radiator, which mount into your specific vehicle with no modifications necessary.
Question: Can I run fewer rows in my application with the aluminum radiator, compared to a higher number of rows copper / brass radiator?
The lighter aluminium is not the only reason for more efficient heat transfer. This is also achieved with the use of larger, wider tubes. This in turn means fewer wider rows. This promotes a larger rate of cooling airflow over the tubes, particularly at low vehicle speeds. This produces greater tube to fin contact which is essential considering the cooling fins do over 90% of the heat dissipation. So yes, you can use fewer rows with an aluminium radiator compared to a copper / brass radiator.
Question: Will my aluminum radiator last as long as a Copper / Brass type radiator?
All late model vehicle manufacturers have chosen aluminium radiators as original equipment, they simply outperform and outlast copper brass type radiators.
Question: What is stray current and how will it effect my car fitted with an aluminum radiator? (Also known as Electrolysis)
Stray current is basically a ‘short’ or electrical fault in one of the vehicles electric circuits causing voltage to be present in the radiator coolant. In other words, the engine is trying to ‘ground’ to the body though the coolant as this is more conductive than the grounds on the vehicle. This stray current will begin to erode the cooling system including cylinder head(s), water pump, thermostat housing and of course the radiator. Often the radiator will show the first signs of this errosion as it is the lightest / thinnest material of the cooling system.
Question: Is it better to use a ‘cross flow’ radiator or a ‘down flow’ type?
Whatever orientation gives a longer tube length is best. If the radiator can be made wider than it is taller, then it should preferably be cross flow. If it is tall such as many early model cars, the rad should be verticle flow. This sees the longest water tube length possible and maximising core area inside of the space available in your vehicle or application.
Question: Should I fit a Electric Fan to my radiator?
As a general rule, the standard engine mechanical fan in most cases will be effective at generating the required cooling airflow. However, mechanical engine fans sap power from the engine hp and quite often provide more airflow than is actually required at high engine speeds. On the other hand in traffic situations, we see the Idling Engine fan simply not able to pull enough air and we have all seen cars over heating in Traffic. An electric fan will offer consistent airflow at all vehicle speeds and result in more stable cooling.
